Being absolutely fed up of cleaning my drivetrain, and the chain and cassette continually turning black, I’ve decided to switch to a dry chain wax. Theres a whole load on the market so selecting one wasn’t that easy.
After trawling the internet I turned to the professionals, and I don’t mean what your local bike shop uses, I mean the pro peloton. Six world tour teams are signed up to use Morgan Blue products officially (Movistar, FDJ, NTT, Alpecin FENIX, Decuenink Quick Step, AG2R la mondiale) so I though that was a great place to start.
I have previously used chain waxes by either TF2/Weldtite or Finish Line made under license to Halfords containing DuPont Krytox, but they stopped selling them. I loved dry waxes, they never got dirty and seemed to last really well. Since the Halfords supply ran out I’ve been on a continual cycle trying all manner of brands and approaches since. (In this time my favourite two lubes have been muc off c3 ceramic and Fenwicks Stealth Road lubes).
Now with a dry wax lube there’s a slightly different approach to application over a regular type. Regular type lubes need to be cleaned to remove all the crud each time before you freshly lube (you can top up if clean but this is rare in my experience). This is what I was getting fed up with, wet lubes constantly attracting crap and having to be cleaned. This isn’t the case with a wax. With a dry wax you have an initial deep clean of your drivetrain before application. After application there’s a cure time for wax to attach itself before you ride. You can then top the wax up when needed without having to strip each time as the wax attracts far less dirt.
My experience of using the dry wax was pretty straight forward. I stripped the cassette and chain from the ribble and gave them a thorough deep clean in dish soap. Dish soap is a great degreaser, and when not on the bike it’s easily scrubbed and worked into parts. You can then simply rinse it all off in the sink. After cleaning this way you must dry it all properly though, a simple way of doing this is by using a hairdryer or popping metal only parts into the oven for a short period of time. My favourite though is on top of the toaster. Dries metal bike parts super quick!
Drivetrain reassembled it was a simple task of lubricating it all. Now Morgan Blue’s instructions to apply are relatively vague, simply apply to the chain and let dry. The wax apparently works its wax into the rollers an links. I found best technique is, with bike in the stand, rotate the chain in reverse apply the wax to the inside of the chain. Making sure it has good coverage on all the rollers. Now pedalling forward I shifted up and down the cassette and front chinrings to get coverage on them. I then reapplied more wax to the chain top up. Now this part is a little it but one I like to do. I run the chain gently through my fingers to transfer wax onto the outer chain plates (make sure your chain has no sharp plates or swarf on it first, if it has it probably needs replacing!). I find this give best coverage, and prevents any nasty rusty chains or cassettes.
Now its a waiting game, like any decent wax coating it needs to cure. Best thing to do is to leave it to cure overnight, fresh for that squeak free morning rideout.
Due to the rather messy nature of application I didn’t get any pictures of that but essentially expect a drenched white chain and cassette! I have however a photo of the chain an cassette now after 100-ish miles.
The result is a nice and clean drivetrain still! With plenty of lube life left as well (waxes tend to need topping up a little more often) so I reckon I should easily get 250 miles before it needs a top up.
Performance on ride was exemplary with slick shifts and noise free operation. I can’t really comment on the watt output or if there were any gains there as I’m not that technical! But what I will say is that first impressions are good, it’s working equally as well as my previous favourites but getting less messy. Win win.
Let’s run it for a while and see how we go! Nice work so far Morgan Blue.